Monday, June 16, 2014

Operation Cycle Tuscany: Day 4 - Florence to Cecina

We had a long, full, day today.  We started our last day in Florence by walking to the Duomo.  Then Mimi & I caught a cab to the NYU Florence "campus."  My niece, Gabriella, will be spending her first year of college there, beginning in August, so we decided to check out her digs.  I was expecting to arrive at a single, nondescript building on the outskirts of town, but was amazed to find the campus is more than 50 acres, with 5 beautiful, large villas, formal gardens, statuary, and art pieces.  After a little problem with language and security (apparently, guests are not allowed on campus, and are only admitted with an appointment.  The gate we drove through was supposed to be locked, and as soon as our cab drove away, an Italian security guard came out yelling!), we toured the grounds and met the Head of Student Affairs.  Lovely woman, lovely school.  I'm so excited for Gabriella to get started.  She'll love it!
Gabriella's new school

View through the gardens to Florence below
Then we began packing up for our farewell to Florence.  The VBT (Vermont Bike Tours) motor coach picked us up at noon, and we were off to the next phase of our adventure!

We drove about 2 hours to Cecina, near the coast of the Mediterranean.  We checked into AgriHotel Elisabetta, a beautiful inn with a view of the sea in the distance, surrounded by acres and acres of vineyards and olive orchards.  After a briefing and bike fitting with our tour guides, Paolo and Timothy, we were off!  Today was just a "brief warm-up ride" to get used to our bikes (easy, because we bought the same ones at home) and the terrain.  The ride was beautiful, and I channeled my inner Lucy, riding through the Italian countryside!  I even greeted a farmer with, "Buona Sera!" but did not stop to hear about his molti bambini, or milk a cow (If you're not a Lucy fan, don't worry about this, but her bicycle ride in Italy and France is priceless -- "Show me your pass-a-port!").  

Cycling the back roads of Italy

A perfect day for a bike ride!
The warm-up ride was 8.68 miles, with a 280 foot elevation change.  The real riding begins tomorrow.

After the ride, we returned to the hotel to change and have a briefing, wine tasting, and dinner.  All of the people in our group (18) seem really nice, and the leaders are funny and warm and very helpful.  We went downstairs to meet the wacky, entertaining, and hilarious Luigi, the owner of the agraturisma, chief wine maker, and hotelier.  He told us a complete history of wine-making in Italy (using our guide Timothy as a translator) while he poured wines.  Very entertaining!
Finally, we had a 3 hour long dining experience with more food than I've ever seen (salads, appetizers, pasta, fish, veal parmesan, desserts, wines, ...).  It was delicious, and I don't think I'll ever be hungry again!

Tomorrow, we're off on a "real" ride.  It's kind of crazy that we're actually riding after all the anticipation, preparation, and shopping we've done!  Trying to take in every minute.

Sunday, June 15, 2014

Operation Cycle Tuscany: Day 3 - Florence

The Creator made Italy from designs by Michelangelo.

                                                                                            – Mark Twain



We hit the road running, bright and early, trying to avoid the crowds at the Duomo that we had seen yesterday.  We were successful at avoiding the crowds since the Duomo was closed (since it's a church, it's closed on Sunday, rather than Monday like most sights in Italy)!  Fortunately, though, the Campanile (bell tower of the Piazza del Duomo) was open, and rather empty, so we climbed!  After quite a bit of huffing, puffing, and claustrophobia, we reached the "top"!  We were astounded at the view, and caught our breath when we realized we were only at the top of the first of 4 levels of the tower! (see the first set of windows).




We kept climbing, legs and lungs burning, as the stairway got narrower and narrower, and more winding as we went.  At one stair landing/resting point a young woman made a striking observation: "You can't live in Italy if you are lactose intolerant, claustrophobic, or afraid of heights!"  Too true.
Mimi - remembering she is claustrophobic!
After a climb of 414 steps (277.7 feet), we reached the (real) top of the tower.  The view was incredible, and worth the effort!  



Our second 414 steps (down) were pretty hard on these old knees, so Chris & Jeanne went a little ahead of Mimi and me.  When we got to the bottom several minutes later, we looked across to the Piazza & found them just where we knew they'd be:
Nothing beats a Perone at 10 a.m. in Firenze!
After a rest and a drink, we were off to the Pitti Palace and the Boboli Gardens.  Another climb to the top of the gardens brought us another spectacular view of the city, and plenty of exercise!  I was worried about the lack of training before the beginning of our ride tomorrow, but, not to worry.  We've walked and climbed so much the past few days, we'll be ready to go!

Okay.  This says only 5.03 miles, but does not represent the 414 steps up (and back down) the Campanile, nor the additional 150 foot climb to the top of Boboli Gardens!
P.S.  Just a little added information regarding yesterday's explorations: We walked to the beautiful Basilica di Santa Croce (the resting place of Michelangelo, Giotto, and Galileo, among others), but it was closed "due to the event."  There was an obvious police presence all around the area, and by the time we finished lunch, many streets had been closed and we were re-routed.  We saw some grandstands being assembled, and Jeanne assured us that it was a rodeo (?!?!).  After a comment from a friend on Facebook said she envied us being here during the World Cup, and on a day Italy was playing in Brazil, we realized the "rodeo" was actually a set-up to view Italy's (victorious) World Cup game.  Oops.  Stupid Americans.

P.P.S.  My luggage arrived!  Hooray.  I did not have to wear my bike "costume" all around Florence for 3 days!



Saturday, June 14, 2014

Operation Cycle Tuscany: Day 2 - Florence

Traveling is the ruin of all happiness! There's no looking at a building after seeing Italy.

                                                                                                               Fanny Burney
A beautiful day in Firenze!  Today, we walked.  After breakfast at the hotel, we walked around this beautiful city.  We walked to the Duomo, and down dozens of beautiful, cobbled streets.  
Giotto's Campanile -- at the Duomo, Firenze, Italy
Our hotel is perfectly located, on Tornabuoni Beacci -- right in the middle of the upscale shopping district.  We went to the Ponte Vecchio, and did some window shopping.  At one point, Chris became engaged in a conversation with a young Ghanan man who was selling some wares (those of you who know Chris will not be terribly surprised at this!).  He was trying to sell her some bracelets, necklaces, elephants, turtles, ... and she was engaging him in conversation.  Eventually, the rest of us had become convinced that she would soon be lured into some human trafficking situation, so Jeanne went out and bargained a 2 Euro ransom to get her away from him!  Chris has been duly warned that this is the last ransom that will be paid for her release!
After Chris' release, we hired a horse & carriage for a tour around the town.  Our driver, Paolo, was very kind and informative, and the tour was fascinating.  Fun!
A carriage ride around Firenze
On to lunch at an outdoor cafe, and then back to the hotel for a brief rest and cooling off (it was 88 degrees and humid today) before we gathered again to walk to the Accademia Gallery for a visit to David.  It was spectacular.  
A little more window shopping, and back to the hotel for drinks on the rooftop dining area.  It had cooled down and was threatening rain, and was beautiful!

A walk to a late dinner in the rain felt like a movie.  After another fabulous meal, we're hunkering down for the night.  What a wonderful city!  

Operation Cycle Tuscany: Day 1 1/2 - Florence

This is Italy!

              Clare, the VBT greeter at the airport when asked about lost luggage!

Our new traveling motto: "But of course. This is Italy."  Let me expand upon the brief notes and exhausted ramblings of yesterday.

#1: Late.  We had booked a van to take Chris, Jeanne, Mimi, and me to the airport.  When he was 15 minutes late, Mimi called the company, and they said he was .4 miles away.  Apparently he was walking, because he did not arrive until 15 minutes later!  He arrived with no apologies, introductions, or smiles.  Just a bit of an attitude as he shot one of our suitcases rolling down the driveway and into the street!  I was proud of Mimi, who is a bit paranoid about being late -- especially to the airport -- for not ripping his head off.

#2: Wrong turn.  Our grouchy, defensive driver has apparently never been to the airport before because he was cruising right past the  605 fwy when Mimi practically grabbed the wheel to get him on the right course.

#3: Lost.  We finally got to the Sepulveda exit toward the airport, when grouchy driver exclaimed, "Too much traffic," and jerked backed (excuse the pun) onto the freeway, getting off at the next exit.  Since we were running late, we thought, "Oh good.  He knows a short cut."  I forgot that he had apparently never been to the airport when he drove miles out of the way, consulting his GPS, and making us even later than we were!

#4: Late.  Although we made our flight on time, the flight left late.  We were concerned because we had such a short time to transfer in Rome for the flight to Florence, which brings us to

#5: Stampede.  We were late into Rome, and piled into long, slow, security lines, knowing we were cutting it close.  They opened a new line, and we bolted for the front.  Chris, Jeanne & I were celebrating our progress when we realized Mimi was not with us.  Apparently, she had been knocked down in the stampede, spilling our snacks all over the security line, and then had been yelled at by a large woman who was mad that Mimi was blocking her progress!  Oops.  Sorry, Mim.

#6: Missed.  After getting a steaming Mimi through security, we ran to our gate, knowing we were going to be close.  As we approached the gate, we were so glad to see people still there, but were told that, because our plane was late from LAX, our bags had not arrived, and so we couldn't get on that flight!

#7: Late.  We were transferred to a flight 3 hours later, so were late into Florence.  We were supposed to be met by our tour people, but saw no one as we waited for our bags.  And waited.  And waited.

#8: Missing.  My bag was not in Florence!  The Alitalia rep looked it up (after my trying to explain in Italian what my bag looked like, and finally pointing to #22 on the "What does your bag look like?" photo) and told me that my bag had been left in Rome, and they would try to deliver it the next morning.  As I walked away, rolling Mimi's bag, the woman ran after me yelling.  I didn't understand at first what she was asking, and finally realized she was asking if I'd found my bag.  She had just told me it was left in Rome, so I lost a little confidence regarding Alitalia's ability to deliver my bag in the morning!  We finally met up with our VBT tour greeter, and when we told her about my bag, she told us that happens all the time.  She said, "Of course.  This is Italy!"

#9: Scared.  Next we had a harrowing ride through the streets of Firenze.  Our cab driver, Luciano, was a warm, friendly guy who did not speak English.  That did not keep him from telling stories, asking questions, and explaining things in Italian during the whole ride.  In addition, he took a lesson from the Italian Stereotype Guidebook and talked with his hands (in the air -- not on the wheel) as we drove down narrow streets, narrowly missing pedestrians, bicycles, strollers, and other cars!  I caught a few words ("Non canto" -- I don't sing, even though my name is Luciano!), and something about Jesus and a restaurant (I don't think Jesus was eating there, but I'm not sure).  Chris, on the other hand, acted as if she understood every word he said, nodding and repeating phrases.  I was so impressed at her understanding of Italian until it became apparent that she had no idea what he was saying either (plus, she kept calling him Marcello, instead of Luciano!).

#10.  Pooped.  We arrived at our lovely hotel, checked in (sans baggage) and strolled around, staying awake as long as possible.  Occasionally, one of us would fade out, but regained our second wind, ate dinner at Harry's Bar on the Arno, and settled in for some well-deserved rest!


Friday, June 13, 2014

Operation Cycle Tuscany - Day 1: Travel

I try to be grateful for the abundance of the blessings that I have, for the journey that I'm on and to relish each day as a gift.

                                                                                 James McGreevey

Just a few words about the last 27 hours:

Late
Wrong turn
Lost
Late
Missed
Stampede
Late
Missing
Pooped!

I'll fill in the details when I can see straight, but we have arrived in Florence!  Some highlights:

 Mimi - how you look after 12 hours in Magnifico Class on Alitalia.  Chris - how you look after 12 hours in Coach on Alitalia!
 A stroll along the Arno.
The view from our hotel balcony.

Friday, June 6, 2014

"Ho bisogno di chiamerai il mio avvocato"


“He who speaks a bit of a foreign language has more delight in it than he who speaks it well; pleasure goes along with superficial knowledge.” 

                                                                                                     ― Friedrich NietzscheHuman, All Too Human

Okay, I know we'll be leaving soon, but we finally busted out the Italian CD's and books we've had since Christmas for some quick language lessons.  We've been doing the listen-repeat-listen routine along with the CD in the car for the last week.  I've learned some important phrases-  "Salve" (hello), "Per Favore" (please), "Grazie" (thank you), and "Dov'e la toilette?" (where is the bathroom), however, once we got past the basics, I began to be a little more concerned about this trip to Italy.  Here are some of the phrases in Chapter 4 of the language learning CD:

"Ho bisogno di chiamerai il mio avvocato"  ("I need to contact my lawyer")
"Vorrei dununciare un scippo" ("I want to report a mugging")
"Sono innocente" ("I am innocent."  I already know this one from one of my favorite I Love Lucy episodes)
"Il mio bambino f'e scomparso" ("My child is missing" -- or maybe, The Dingo got my baby!)
"Sono costipato" (I'm constipated)

Okay.  That was enough of that!  If I have to use any of these phrases, I'm in big trouble ("grossi guai")!
So, we skipped ahead to Chapter 5, and found:
"Non mi toccare!" ("Don't touch me!")
and "Penso che dovremmo fermarci adesso" ("I think we should stop now!')
"Ho bisogno di un test di gravidanza" ("I need a pregnancy test" -- apparently he didn't understand the last 2 phrases)
Enough language lessons!  I'll stick with Chapter 1 and hope for the best!
Non parlo Italiano!

Operation Tuscany by Bicycle Begins!

When I see an adult on a bicycle, I do not despair for the future of the human race.

                                                                                                                                  H.G. Wells

A little background here... I finished my Ph.D. last summer, and my graduation gift from Mimi was "Pick Your Paradise"!  After some consideration and research, discussion and recommendations from friends, we decided upon a cycling trip through Tuscany.  So, for the past 9 months or so, we've engaged in more or less training.

So, for this season of View from the Fit, we won’t be driving the Fit, but, we hope, we will be riding as The Fit ourselves!  The training begins!

Once we decided our Summer ’14 adventure was to be a cycling trip, we knew we’d better start training!  We got out our old (mountain) bikes, got them cleaned up and tuned up, and set out on our first ride.  As we got prepared to pedal off, we talked with our next-door neighbor, James, an avid cyclist.  We told him about our trip, and he cheered us off down the street.  Approximately 3 blocks later (I swear, I am not exaggerating this), we had to pull over and rest, acknowledging this was a horrible idea!  Unfortunately, we knew that James would still be in his yard, and we couldn’t face the humiliation of riding home approximately 10 minutes after we left. 

We plugged on, huffing and puffing and resting frequently, and made it a couple of miles before heading home.  We decided it must certainly be our bikes.  We do enjoy a little shopping, so had quite a time shopping for bikes and equipment and clothes.  The training began anew!


Christmas Eve, 2013.  Bolsa Chica, CA
Over the course of the past eight or nine months, we have kicked up the training for our ride in June. We've ridden the San Gabriel River Trail, the Santa Ana River Trail, the Pacific Electric Bike Trail, and mostly, the Bolsa Chica to Huntington Beach or Bonelli Park bike paths.  

We've gone from needing to rest 2 blocks from home, to doing the 16 mile round trip from Huntington to Newport, or the 10 mile loop around Bonelli/Puddingstone with relative ease (but encouraged by a stop for chips and cheese at Jake's on the Beach, or Norm's Cafe at the Brackett Field Airport).

The end of a windy beach ride!
This is too much fun to be called training!
On one of our recent rides around Puddingstone, we were hot and tired when we arrived at Norm's for breakfast.  We were extremely discouraged to realize neither of us had packed any money, so we rode back to the car, got the check card, and rode back to Norm's.  After this additional 4 mile jaunt, we arrived back at Norm's to find:


AHHHHHHH!