Day 18: Homeward Bound!

Oh California I'm coming home
Oh make me feel good rock 'n' roll band
I'm your biggest fan
California I'm coming home
Joni Mitchell

376 miles
3 states today (New Hampshire, Massachusetts, New York)
16th total states so far!

We've left this half of the trip almost entirely unplanned.  I have the same travel philosophy as my golf philosophy: if every shot (day driving) is closer to the hole (California) than when we started, it's a good day on the course (road).

We had a nice farewell breakfast at the Wentworth with Kelly, and then hit the road.  We know we were going to head across Massachusetts and upstate New York, but had (have) no plans beyond that.  It turned out to be a really interesting travel day.

Once again, the scenery across so much of the country is beautiful.  I didn't expect the gorgeous views through the Berkshires, and so much of New York.  We started off on the Interstate -- nice enough, although the rest stop was pretty scary.  We were going to grab a bite to eat, but when we got there we changed our minds (Mimi described it as being like a food court at the DMV.  Enough said?)
As we drove along, we saw the sign for Cooperstown, and decided to take a detour.  We went to the Baseball Hall of Fame -- fascinating!

These were My Dodgers.  "Oh them D, Oh them D-O"

Driving today was a little crazy.  First, on a scenic byway roadway, a flock of geese ran out in front of my car.  I used some deft maneuvers to try to avoid killing the geese while avoiding being killed by the tailgater behind me!  Success (I think -- I didn't hear a squawk, feel a bump, or find any telltale feathers!).  Then, on the same road, we came over a hill to find an Amish buggy and horse headed right for us.  In 36 years of driving, I've never experienced either!

Day 17: Last Day in NH!

“If you don't like the weather in New England now, just wait a few minutes.”
― Mark Twain

Beautiful day today.  We walked the beaches and trails from New Castle to Odiorne Point.  How have I never discovered these nice, empty beaches before?

Beach stroll with Wentworth in background

Then we went out to Portsmouth Country Club for lunch with Steve and Andi.  Another nice visit (and another lobster roll for M!).

Tree planted at Portsmouth Country Club in memory of my dad, almost 20 years ago.

We spent the afternoon shopping around downtown Portsmouth (and weren't interrupted by a drenching thunderstorm).  The afternoon in Portsmouth was punctuated by the show above us -- the Blue Angels are practicing for the air show at Pease this weekend, so we were treated to some amazing flying feats right over our heads.
We're restocking for the ride home, which begins tomorrow!  We've sketched out a plan for the next day or two, but are kind of playing it by ear from that point forward.  We'll keep you posted as we make decisions.
Dinner at the Wentworth, looking out over the water.  Goodbye Atlantic!
I walked into this sight when we returned to our room:

 Is there any good reason Mimi is lying on the bathroom floor?
a) 2 glasses of wine
b) slip and fall
c) getting warm on the heated tiles
d) narcolepsy

(The answer is ... c.  We ate dinner out on the deck, and came back freezing.  The warmest place in the room is the heated tiles on the floor of the bathroom!  Actually, when I consider the answer choices, the real answer has to be a combination of a & c!).

Day 16: New Hampshire

 I love everything that's old, - old friends, old times, old manners, old books, old wine.
Oliver Goldsmith

A day of visiting and exploring.
Enjoyed breakfast and chatting with Penny and Bud in Lee, NH.  Sat out on the deck in the woods -- beautiful setting!

Then we embarked on some more searching for roots.  We drove to Alfred, Maine, where I had read many of the Smiths had lived and were buried.  After some investigating and asking around ("I hear there's an old cemetery around here somewhere."  "There's one across the road and across the fields.  If you're going in there, do a tick check when you get out."  Ewww).  We discovered a beautiful spot (okay- that's a matter of opinion.  Mimi was convinced that it was spooky, haunted, and we'd have Lyme disease if we weren't shot first for trespassing) that included the graves of some ancestors including my 5x great-grandfather, Rev. Henry Smith (1752 - 1836), and 5x great grandmother, Susannah Hodsdon (1752-1848).  The original Shaker barn is still on the property across the street, and the church/meeting-house started in 1804 is right up the road. 

After a beautiful drive through some more Maine countryside, we made our way back to a nap and a bath (and a tick-check), and then met Calvin & Kimmee for Happy Hour at Latitudes (the bar/restaurant on the Wentworth marina).  Lots of laughs (and a couple tears) catching up and looking back.

A really nice day that reminds me how rare it is and how fortunate we are to have people with whom we have a really long shared history -- one that extends through the generations, for more than 70 years!

Aunt Cal (Calvin's mom) & Aunt Joanie (Penny's mom)

Scarponis, Butlers, Robbins

Day 15: More New Castle, NH

 But the beauty is in the walking -- we are betrayed by destinations.
  Gwyn Thomas

Another day of relaxation, visiting, and great food.  This morning, we walked all around the island (of New Castle).  Perfect weather for a long walk -- cool and overcast.  The homes here are fabulous, and we took in the view at Great Island Common.  Beautiful.

Then we asked a woman to take a picture of the two of us with the lighthouse in the background:

We took Aunt Betty out to lunch -- finally made it to Ray's.  Mimi's first whole lobster.

After lunch, we headed into town, but our shopping was cut short by a pounding thunderstorm.  So, went back to the room, sat in front of the fireplace, and read and relaxed.  Dinner in the Wentworth dining room.  Unbelievably great meal!

I don't think any day is worth living without thinking about what you're going to eat next at all times.
 Rest in peace,  Nora Ephron

Lobster Trio: Grilled, Fried, and Sauteed Lobster.

As much as we hate to think about leaving, we're starting to plan for the trip home.  Mimi's wish was granted on the way here (the SPAM museum), and I am determined to go to the Lucy Museum on the way back!

By the way, we're feeling very fortunate after reading today's headline in the Montana News Now: "Man Gored by Yellowstone Bison."  Mimi did some serious risk-taking in getting the bison shots in Yellowstone, and at one point was filming the grizzly bear tear apart a carcass when 2 bison lumbered right by her.  Little did we understand the risk!  The article said, "The bison got close enough to the man that he caught him on his horns and through (sic) him some 10-feet in the air according to other witnesses. He was then pinned to the ground." (Who?  The bison or the man?  Apparently grammar and spelling aren't key requirements to write for the Montana News Now!).

Day 14: New Castle, NH

"Dolce Far Niente"  

Laura Petrie, The Dick Van Dyke Show

4076 miles total!
14 states!
2 Canadian provinces!

Today: 10 miles!

A day of rest.  We got settled in to our room for the week, unpacked, and sorted laundry.  Mimi went to the laundromat while I stayed back to upload photos and info to Ancestry.com.  While Mimi was out, we had a tremendous thunder storm, with rain pelting sideways and lightning.  It was much easier to wait it out from our suite at the Wentworth than our tent in the woods!

Another room with a view!

We pulled ourselves together to go to dinner with Kelly and Joe.  Great to see them -- lots of laughs and reminiscing (and ice cream!). 

Making a few plans for the week -- visiting with (pseudo) relatives, walking through downtown Portsmouth, and, especially, planning for the next lobster meal (another lobster roll for dinner tonight!).  Mostly looking forward to some relaxation and down time.

Day 13: Solon, ME to New Castle, New Hampshire

From sea to shining sea!

189 Miles
14th state: New Hampshire

Every book is a quotation; and every house is a quotation out of all forests, and mines, and stone quarries; and every person is a quotation from all his ancestors.
Ralph Waldo Emerson

We packed up our campsite, and dried up and cleaned up as much as possible before loading everything into the car (and said, yet again, "Thank God we didn't drive the Fit!").  Today was a roots-searching day.  We went to 2 Solon cemeteries and found the gravesites of several ancestors (while fighting the biggest swarms of mosquitoes I've ever seen).  Then we traveled up the road to Bingham, and found Manu's parents' graves (a big find -- many gravesites are identified on Ancestry.com, but these were not).  I know it sounds morbid to many, but I feel such a great sense of discovery when we find what we're looking for.
Mom's biggest advice when we left was, "Take pictures.  And not just of headstones!"  Sorry Mom.  I couldn't help it today!

Michael Padham - My great-great grandfather

David & Lillie Roach- my great-grandparents

Jane Padham - My great-great grandmother

David Roach Sr. - My great-great grandfather.  A Civil War Veteran.

After cemetery searching, we got on the road to the final destination.  We were so happy and relieved to arrive in Portsmouth.  We checked into the Wentworth (or, to Sherry, the Merriweather!).  Beautiful day.  Perfect place.   For some reason (I think a welcome back from the catering manager who helped us last summer), we ended up with a suite with a fireplace, hers and hers bathrooms (yes, girls, with heated floor tiles), and another beautiful view.  Feeling so fortunate.
Stopped by to see Aunt Betty -- still going strong at 91!  (For those who don't know Aunt Betty, see http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jTeabL-4Xzw).  After setting up a lunch date for later this week, we went to the River House for dinner.  First lobster roll, and (according to Mimi and many reviewers) the best seafood chowder in the world!!  The trip has been as much about the journey as the destination, but you can't beat the destination!

Day 12: Montreal to Solon, ME

It always rains on tents. Rainstorms will travel thousands of miles, against prevailing winds for the opportunity to rain on a tent.
Dave Barry

230 Miles
2 Canadian provinces
13th state (Maine)

We drove out of Montreal and through some more beautiful country (once we got off the main roads).  We drove the length of Lake Erie and Lake Ontario.  Those Great Lakes are really Great!  Hard to believe you're not looking at the ocean when you see the vast expanse of water.  We re-entered the U.S. through the border in Coburn Gore, Maine -- a much easier border crossing than the Port Huron, Michigan to Canada border.  The border patrol agent was very no-nonsense -- checking passports, car registration, "how long have you been in Canada," "what are you carrying across the border," "may I look in the back of the car,"... until he got to the question, "Where are you headed in Maine?"  When we told him Solon, he finally broke official face and said, "If you don't mind my asking, where are you staying?"  When we told him we might camp, he said, "Good.  The hotel in Solon is a dump."  !!

Driving into Maine, we saw our first rain of the trip.  Then we saw more and more and started to panic a little about the great camping adventure.  We decided to make it to the campgrounds and play it by ear.  We drove into Evergreens Campground in Solon, and found it to be beautiful -- a perfect site on the Kennebec River.  When we asked the owner about our alternatives, she directed us to a "high and dry" campsite and told us the storm would "just blow right through."  We asked about motel alternatives in case it got too awful, and she told us the only one was the Solon Hotel, and "Nice ladies don't stay there!"

Serving not-nice-ladies for 117 years!

The adventure was on!  The weather had cleared a little and we laid out the tarp and the tent and started the set up.  As soon as we were committed (we should have been committed!) and there was no turning back, it started pouring.  By the time we got the tent up, we were drenched.  By the time the air mattress was inflated, it was apparent there was a leak in the floor of the tent.  We eventually got ourselves zipped in, floating above the 2" puddle in the tent, and listened to the pouring rain and thunder.  We discovered we had limited Internet access, and when we looked up the weather, the prediction was all-night thunder showers, and then flashed the FLASH FLOOD ALERT: SOLON, ME!!  Oh well, we knew we were in for an adventure, hunkered down, and actually slept well (and warm and dry).  Figures.  The only night of our entire trip with even a drop of rain is the night we had the great idea to camp!  The new day dawned bright and warm, and we had to pack up a lot of dirty, wet stuff.  ON TO NEW HAMPSHIRE!

The campground owner told us the bear chased him halfway through the wall, & then got stuck!

The Kennebec River in Solon, ME, where my great-grandfather was a logger, and my grandmother used to "run the logs"

Day 11: Niagara Falls to Montreal

The cool thing about being famous is traveling. I have always wanted to travel across seas, like to Canada and stuff.

Britney Spears

 672 km (420 miles)
Nous arrivons à Montréal

Drove across a good chunk of Canada today.  Nice country -- clean and pretty.  M: "This country is real purdy."  We arrived in Montreal this afternoon (after some harrowing driving into the city through construction that reminded one of traveling the luge).  This is a beautiful city.  We're staying on the edge of Vieux Montreal (Old Montreal) -- very European with beautiful architecture and cobbled streets.  Walked around in the old town and along the waterfront.  Nice shops, lots of restaurants with street seating, ...

Montreal at Dusk from our hotel room.

Another foreign language encounter:  Smiley lady to me at a fountain: "Blah blah blah" (something unintelligible -- I assumed it was in French).  Me to Smiley lady: "Pardon?" (en francais).  Smiley lady, loudly and slowly (in her native English): "It ... is ... pretty?  It ... is ... good?"  Me to Smiley lady: "Oui".
Today we head back to the US of A.  We're heading to Solon, Maine (My grandmother's birthplace), and we'll play it by ear from there (unfortunately, on the first day of forecasted rain and thunderstorms, we're supposed to camp!).  We may be "off the grid" for a couple of days, so don't worry if you don't hear.  We'll get caught up when we return to civilization.
p.s. 12 days in, we're still having a great time, and we're still speaking (and laughing a lot-- even when M. accidentally turned on the radio at 2:30 this morning and couldn't turn it off).  We haven't yet had to take Holly's advice to Mimi: "When Nan stops laughing at your jokes, you need to shut up!" 

Day 10: Holly, MI to Niagara Falls, ONT

In all things of nature there is something of the marvelous.
Aristotle

445 kilometers (278 miles)

“Kilometers are shorter than miles. Save gas, take your next trip in kilometers.” – George Carlin

We had a fun, relaxing time with Liz and Martin, and then hit the road for Canada. The weather's been pretty hot the last couple of days, but we haven't had a drop of rain.  We arrived in Niagara Falls, and checked into our room -- a Falls View suite on the 20th floor.  A little scary, but incredible view.

View from our room

 We walked on the boardwalk, and decided to make it a complete tourist experience by going on the Maid of the Mist (the boat that goes right up to the base of the falls).  Good thing it was hot out!

Mimi heading under the falls in her rain gear!

 

 

 

 

Getting drenched

At so many stops along the way, I miss the girls and wish they were here.  Then I see people dealing with whining children ("I want to see the dragon's breath NOW") and sulky teens ("This is so lame.") and the reality of traveling with children strikes me!  I do not know how my parents (mostly my mom) did this trip time and time again with 4 kids, one or two grandparents, and a small dog.  Liz & I were reminiscing about some of the trips, and some of the family experiences and expressions ("Knock it off, Trixie!", and "Just a little too tired" for a couple) and I realized most of them were directed at tormenting ME!

I spent most of the time on the boardwalk over the Falls worrying about other people's children.  There are a lot of stupid, stupid, parents who are having "discussions" with their children who are climbing on the rails over the cliffs over the Falls!  "Okay, sweetie.  Mommy would rather you kept your feet on the ground."  "Honey, the policeman will be angry with you because the sign says you can't sit there."  That is WRONG, man!

We drove through St. Catharine's today.  Mimi tried to get a picture for Italo (his home town!), but St. Catharine's is like a moose -- apparently a challenge to photograph!

Welcome to St. Catharine's

Tomorrow we head to Montreal. 

Day 9: Holly, Michigan

“Our battered suitcases were piled on the sidewalk again; we had longer ways to go. But no matter, the road is life.”
from Jack Kerouac
 

0 miles!

Jack

Romeo

Tommy Turtle

A day of rest!  We're staying with Liz and Martin.  Stayed in our pajamas 'til noon, ate good food, read, enjoyed good company, viewed wildlife in the back yard (deer, turtles, fish, duck, bullfrogs) and relaxed.  Great, needed, day of relaxation.

Day 8: Beloit, WI to Holly, MI

"One must be out-of-doors enough to get experience of wholesome reality, as a ballast to thought and sentiment.  Health requires this relaxation, this aimless life."   
Henry David Thoreau

380 miles

Wisconsin to Illinois to Indiana to Michigan (12 states so far)

Today was more about the destination than the journey!  We just plugged along on the major highways -- not a lot of sights to see or stops to make.  We drove through Chicago (which made me decide that, should I ever want to stay in Chicago, I will fly in and take a cab!).  Still, despite the traffic, accidents and congestion, we arrived at Liz and Martin's beautiful home.  So, we enjoyed some home cooking, visiting, and relaxing.  Tomorrow's a day off -- just hangin' with Lizzie and Martin (and Romeo, George, and Jack).

Liz & Martin's back yard

Day 7: Rapid City, SD, to Beloit, WI

820 miles

2 more states (South Dakota to Minnesota to Wisconsin)

“In fact, just about all the major natural attractions you find in the West- the Grand Canyon, the Badlands, the Goodlands, the Mediocrelands, the Rocky Mountains and Robert Redford- were caused by erosion.” Dave Berry

Our longest driving day yet (left right after breakfast, and got into the motel after 11:15 p.m.).  We saw lots of land and highways, and a couple of interesting stops/sights.  First, we drove through the Badlands of South Dakota -- strange, ominous, country.  

On the way out of Badlands park, we happened upon the Minuteman Missile National Historic Site.  Who knew?  My dad worked on Minuteman missiles, and now the government has a tour of the former missile silo sites in South Dakota.  Another strange, but interesting, site.

The highlight of the day was our stop at the Spam Museum.  Mimi's trip dreams have been fulfilled (although we arrived after closing, and so couldn't shop in the Spam gift shop.  Tragic!)

The best part of the day for me was the audiobook in the car.  The only thing better than reading "To Kill a Mockingbird" is having Sissy Spacek read it to me!  It was particularly special as we drove through the Badlands (anyone remember the movie? My intro to Sissy S.  Scary.).
On to Michigan tomorrow! 

P.S.  Just one question about this display in the Badlands Gift Shop.  Why?

 

Day 6: Yellowstone to Rapid City, SD

 
“The whole object of travel is not to set foot on foreign land; it is at last to set foot on one’s own country as a foreign land.” – G. K. Chesterton

512 Miles
1 more state (Wyoming to South Dakota)

**We discovered today that my sisters were about to call out the Mounties as we'd been out of contact for 2 whole days! Thank God somebody cared, but we're fine!
Long day, short post! We were on the road for nearly 11 hours today, with only a couple of stops (most notably, Mt. Rushmore). We crossed 3 major mountain ranges (out of Yellowstone, Bighorn National Forest, and the Black Hills of South Dakota), and saw more beautiful country (and a whole lot of not-so-beautiful country).

Our final destination (on this half of the trip) is New Castle, New Hampshire, and today we went through Newcastle, Wyoming. Not quite the same town. Two notable observations from this Newcastle:

1) Sign on the Newcastle Motel: "Just Like Home!" (They forgot to add, "if your home is a shithole.")

2) Sign on the Newcastle Market: "Budweiser Sold Here! Drive-Thru for Beer!"

After seeing Mt. Rushmore (remarkably classy and non-kitchy) we drove to Rapid City, SD.

The route there had more bad tourist attractions in 10 square miles than I've ever seen, including Reptile World, The Amazing Maze (a 20-foot square, 6 foot high, wooden structure), the Flintstones Campground and Amusement Park, Sitting Bull's Mystery Cave, Dinosaur Park, numerous water slides and mini-golf courses, several Wild West shows...you get the idea.

As we began looking for a motel, the best we could find advertised "Furnished rooms." Needless to say, we kept driving! On to more middle-America tomorrow!

"1-2 people rooms.  Furnished."

Day 5: Yellowstone National Park

In wilderness I sense the miracle of life, and behind it our scientific accomplishments fade to trivia.       Charles Lindbergh

Every day we've seen beautiful scenery and wildlife, but today took the cake.  We hiked the North Rim of the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone (okay, I didn't even know this existed until planning this trip).  It was an 8.5 mile hike through some of the most spectacular country I've ever seen.  We hiked through the woods, adjacent to the river, and through the canyon.  At one point, you can hike to the Brim of the Falls.  It's a strenuous hike (and crazy hiking back up) but when you get to the bottom, you're standing directly above the falls.

Photos can't capture the enormity and power of the waterfall.

We stopped for a picnic along the way, and it felt as if we were sitting on the edge of the earth. (Well, not quite on the edge, because M. was having a panic attack if I went within 6 feet!).  In any case, the hike was indescribably beautiful -- once again perfect weather, and a feeling of accomplishment at the end. (Note to Anne: I jacked up my pedicure, but for now, I'm hangin' on to my toenails!).

The hike reminded me of some words of wisdom from a Vietnam Vet we'd been chatting with the day before.  He'd made some "bucket list" type plans in the past year, including visiting Yellowstone, going on an Alaskan cruise, and going back to school for his PhD.  Then, his wife died and he was diagnosed with cancer (Obviously Mimi was there since we engaged a perfect stranger in conversation!).  Still, he decided to go through with his plans and was on the first leg of his journey.  He shared his guiding words:
"I never said it was going to be easy, but I promise it'll be worth it."
True for our hike and for life!

After a quick shower and change (fate smiles again -- we got a room at the Lake Hotel for the night again tonight), we headed to the Old Faithful Inn and for dinner.

Dear Old Faithful Inn restaurant manager,
I know you must think it's cute and trendy to put items on the menu like "Bison Stroganoff," "Trout Stew," and "Elk Meatloaf," but could you just throw in a burger or chicken?  Really?  We drove an hour and the only thing edible on the menu is a spinach salad?

After dinner, we wandered around the springs and geysers, waiting for Old Faithful.  My childhood memory of this was standing miserably in the rain, waiting for the eruption, and then being barely able to see it due to the rain and the fog.  This time, it was beautiful.

Back to the hotel for a farewell to Yellowstone.  It's been fabulous.

P.S.  On our hike, we solved the age-old question:  Does a bear (scat) in the woods?  Yes, and we have the photos to prove it for anyone who is interested!

Day 4: Jackson Hole, WY to Yellowstone National Park

 "It is an incalculable added pleasure to any one's sum of happiness if he or she grows to know, even slightly and imperfectly, how to read and enjoy the wonder-book of nature." Theodore Roosevelt

**We've been "off the grid" in Yellowstone for two days, so I'm getting caught up here.

Day 4: 100 miles

We started the day with a ride up the gondola to the summit at Jackson Hole: 10,450 feet.  It was clear and beautiful, and we could see the valleys on both sides of the mountain.  There was snow at the top – we went from 100° two days ago, to 45° this morning!  We then set off through Grand Teton National Park – more beautiful scenery – and headed to Yellowstone.

Here’s where the first glitch in our plans occurred.  We got to our reserved room (it’s hard to find a room inside Yellowstone) only to find it unbearably awful (Kim – this was a Motel 2).  A photo couldn’t do it justice (unless, perhaps, it was a scratch and sniff).  We quickly decided we could not stay in that room, and (fortune smiles again) found that one room has just opened up in the Lake Hotel for tonight only.  We grabbed it, and are hoping for more luck tomorrow as everything is sold out, and there’s no way I’m setting foot back in Motel 2.

After dinner in the (new) hotel, we took a drive to see some hot springs, mini-geysers, and mud volcanoes.  This is remarkable scenery (worthy to be remarked upon), and M. took videos and pictures of the “geological oddities.”  I can’t imagine under what desperate circumstances we’d actually sit down to watch bubbling hot springs and boiling mud, but the whole thing brought to mind the hours of home movies Dad took at Marineland (no kids – only seals, dolphins, etc.).  Then again, if we get stuck in another motel room like we started in today, those videos might start to look pretty good to us!

Wildlife sightings:

3 Moose (Mooses?  Meese?)  Whatever they are, Mimi can’t seem to capture them on film.  At one point, she was standing in a tree snapping pictures like crazy, but when we tried to download them, we saw trees and greenery (and even a man in shorts), but no moose!  Even when we had to stop for one in the middle of the road directly in front of us, the photo escaped us.

Finally!

1 wolf (not related – the 4-legged kind).  It was so cute – after he peed, he kicked up the grass with his hind legs just like Augie.

2 bison

1 grizzly bear

We now know that in an animal kingdom game of rock, paper, scissors, the bison beats the bear.  As the giant bison started ambling over toward the feeding grizzly, the grizzly picked up his prey and ran into the woods.