It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and can coast down them. ... Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motorcar only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.
Ernest Hemingway
We started off early this morning, on a beautiful route, on a beautiful day (we'd had rain predicted, heavy at times, for most of this week and have had nothing but sunshine and temps in the 70's). The countryside around here is indescribably lovely, and we have to stop and gape, and take some photos every few kilometers.
Then we got to the part on the map that cautioned, "Uphill. Switch to low gear." And we climbed. And climbed. And climbed. Then I started swearing and pouting. Eventually, Mimi told our guide (for me) to get off our f*?!ing tails and let us ride at our own pace (Okay, that's what I heard her say, but she actually was a lot nicer). I pointed out that this was supposed to be vacation, and I WAS NOT HAVING FUN! We climbed some more, and I bitched some more, and we rested some more, and still we climbed, never giving up, and SURE we'd reach the top (and the picnic lunch) around the next bend.
Later in the day, Mimi convinced our fellow tour members that her name, Mimi, in Italian means, "When tired, lie down and rest in the shade of a tree."
We did finally make it (me, in very poor humor. My habit of cheerily shouting "Buongiorno!" to passing cyclists had long passed) to the top of the mountain, to a beautiful, medieval town overlooking the fields and the sea, where our tour leaders had provided a wonderful picnic lunch!
In the town, we went into a tiny leather shop where this young man was making beautiful things. He made a belt for Mimi!
The trip back down the hill was significantly easier, and I was having fun again. We rode 3 km through a pine forest near the sea. Incredible. We rode a total of 28.44 miles today.
Then back to the hotel for a rest by the pool and another fantastic 3 hour dinner. We've been getting to know our fellow travelers, and we got so lucky. They're a fun, interesting group of people including a wonderful couple from New Hampshire (we already got an invite to stay with them or in their cabin the next time we're in NH), a couple and their 2 sons-- 3 from California (he's a television and film writer) and one son from New York. Bright, funny, interesting people. Also, a principal and her husband from Massachusetts via Atlanta. She's been our riding pal, because she's more concerned with the sights and the safety than the speed (which is another way of saying, we have secured the place of "last ones in")! A bright, spunky young woman from Northern California and her dad. They're so cute riding/hanging out together. The trip photographer, who is a really sweet, interesting guy. He has expressed his appreciation for the welcoming nature of our group of 4, and said he's never felt less like the odd man out on a trip. Of course, Chris and Jeanne have been the social butterflies, bringing the whole group together. Everyone knew Chris' name by the end of the first evening!
Tomorrow we ride along the beach promenade, through a pine forest, and through a cypress forest. The guides promise the hills will be shorter, rolling hills. I'm beginning to doubt them, but looking forward to tomorrow, and our move to a resort hotel on the Mediterranean.
Of course about everyone knowing Chris the first day! Does she claim that everyone wants to adopt her already?
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