Operation Cycle Tuscany - Day 12: Arrivederci Roma!

“Once you have traveled, the voyage never ends, but is played out over and over again in the quietest chambers. The mind can never break off from the journey.” 
                                                                                                                                                        ― Pat Conroy

Mimi & I set off this morning, after a very full day yesterday, for a more relaxed exploration of the rest of the city.  We had seen most of the most important sites, and wanted to take it a little easy today (didn't happen!).  We set off first for the church of San Pietro in Vicoli (St. Peter in Chains).  This church contains Michelangelo's Moses sculpture, as well as the relic of the chains that bound St. Peter.  When Mom and I were here more than 20 years ago, we climbed the steep staircase to the top of the hill, only to find the church closed.  When Mimi and I went today, we climbed the steep staircase to the top of the hill, only to find the church closed until 3 p.m.!  We decided to wander some more, get a bite to eat, and head back!

We went by the Trevi Fountain, which was a river of humanity despite the fact that the entire monument is being renovated, has no water, and is surrounded by fencing, and covered by scaffolding.  Short visit!  

Now we headed to Santa Maria Maggiore, a beautiful Basilica on the top of the Esquiline Hill. It was a relief to be able to take our time and see all we wanted to see without the enormous (and often rude) crowds.  This basilica houses the Crypt of the Nativity under the altar, which is said to hold a piece of wood from the crib of the Nativity.  It is also interesting and unusual for some of the gruesome artwork on the tombs of Popes buried there.

After a bite to eat, we went back to San Pietro in Vicoli.  Again, we were able to wander without large crowds, and really spend some time seeing the things we wanted to see.  This is much less ornate church, but beautiful as well, and it is wonderful to see the Michelangelo close up, without the crowds (and free).  

The chains that bound St. Peter

This city is crazy expensive! I wish the government officials would invest some of the outrageous money spent here to hire some of the Disneyland sweepers.  One good day of sweepers could do a lot to clean up the trash all over the streets.  When you look up, it's spectacular; when you look down, it's filthy.

We headed back to the hotel to unpack, rearrange, and repack, trying to figure out how to get our purchases home without going over the weight limit!  Then off to dinner at Malafemmena ("Bad Women") -- a recommendation of our bartender.  It is known for its fresh fish and its owner, Angelo.  They brought us Prosecco to start, and then showed us the fresh fish (practically still wriggling).  Jeanne and I had wonderful pasta, and Chris and Mimi split a sea bass dish, again set to beautiful music at an outdoor table.  After dinner, Angelo brought us Limoncello and biscotti.  

Limoncello.  Yummy!

Great food (expensive), and Angelo sent us on our way with kisses and roses!  A beautiful ending to this trip.

Salute!

"Farewell Italy, with your lakes, and your mountains, and your wonderful people.     Goodbye, dear Italy.  No I'm not going to say 'Goodbye,' I'm going to say 'Arrivederci'!"  Lucy.  "Bicycle Trip"